As is typical for the left-wing liberal press, yesterday's NY Times blasted Ethiopia with a sensationalist article, obviously intended to blast the current US administration.
For those of you who wish to get a less biased view of the myriad of events working to make the people's lives better, goto:
http://www.waltainfo.com/
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Coffee Factory Tour
What are the odds? Only a few hundred meters from our house is a coffee processing, roasting and export factory. Apparently, the Robera Private Limited Company has been working over the past year or so to expand its operations to include more international business. They have been teasing us with a potential coffee shop since January and this past week we saw open doors and people moving. This was enough to prompt an investigation, I stopped by to see what was going on. They said that they were not yet "officially" open, but were selling roasted beans from three different Ethiopian regions (Sodammo, Lekempti and Yergge Cheffe) and one custom Robera blend. It so happened that the man I was speaking to was Mr. Abraham Teressa, the General Manager of the factory. After a discussion of our intense love of coffee and my food chemist background he invited me to the QA lab on Sunday morning for a coffee tasting! I then bought half a kilo of the three regional coffees to take home and experiment with on my own. About 20 minutes later I was back to the store to buy a full kilo (2.2 lbs) of each of the three to send to Courtney. They were packed and on the plane to the States just a few hours later.
Saturday morning arrived and about 9:30, just as I was on my way to the market for our weekly grocery shopping run, Abraham called me on my mobile phone to remind me of the tasting. Apparently Sunday and Saturday were two English words he was still working on because he was doing the tasting right then! I had Wuhib stop the truck, got out and quickly headed back to the factory. As I was walking there I stopped by and invited Marcus and Ralph to go as well. Once on the premises, the luscious aroma of roasting beans drew us upstairs to the QA lab where Abraham (in the tan jacket) and five others were awaiting our arrival, a couple of technicians, the Marketing Manager, Facilities Manager and the Master Blender himself, 
a man with over 40 years experience in roasting and blending Ethiopian coffees. He took us to the tasting area where there were 4 cups each of all four coffee types in both a medium roast and a dark roast, 32 cups in all. Now we love coffee, but we didn't think we loved it THAT much!Coffee tasting is kind of like wine tasting. It is about the tasting, not the drinking. We each received a big spoon to sip from each of the varieties and roasts to determine our preferences and to see the difference between regions and processing. What a delectable experience. Ethiopia is the original homeland of Coffee arabica, and produces top quality Arabica coffee as the country's #1 export. Coffee is produced in large quantities in different parts of the country. Kaffa, which has given
coffee its name, is one of them. Ethiopia, more than any other country in the world, has a broad genetic diversity among its Arabica coffee varieties, especially in terms of its exquisitive aroma and flavour. As a result, nine different bean varieties are cultivated in the various coffee-growing areas of the country all with distinctive tastes, sizes, shapes and colours. From the subtle difference between regions to the tremendous difference between roasts to the incredible taste of warm coffee beans dropped fresh from the roaster. Wow! Just wow!
They insisted on then giving a tour of the factory. They receive tons of green coffee beans from 9 different regions in Ethiopia. These are then blended (when desired), screened, cleaned, and hand sorted to be bagged in 50 kg burlap bags for shipping w
orldwide. Their goal is to ship 9,600 tons this year. They produce both washed varieties ( Tepi, Sidamo, Wollega, Gambela, Yirgachafe, and Limu) and natural sun-dried varieties (Nekemte, Djimma, Borena, Illubabor, Gedao and Bale). Abraham told me that he would gladly sell me a container of coffee (300 bags at 50kg each about 33,000 lbs) and ship it to the US.The next stop was back to the coffee shop where they brewed up fresh cups of the pure Yirga Chaffe variety. Thick, rich, sweet, aromatic, and simply wonderful tasting, straight up. No milk, sugar or anything else added. I am afraid we have all been spoiled now. There is no way that even the mighty Starbucks can compare to this wonderful drink. It is truly the taste that sells and there is nothing else like it.
Now for the good part. The 3 kg I bought and sent home, 6.6 lbs of solid am
brosia, cost 138 Birr... about $14 and thats roasted retail price. If Starbucks even had something this good it would easily cost over 100 bucks. Robera is now considered a friend and a neighbor to us. We officially adopted their store as "Our Coffee Shop" and in only 8 more days it will be our official hangout. Wish you were here to share it!
Sunday, May 20, 2007
More on food
Ethiopian food is unique. Simple foods prepared by simple means. Imagine how you would cook if all you had to cook on was a single kerosene burner and you questioned the sanitation of the food you were cooking and the water available to drink. The result? You boil ALOT of things for a 
LONG time!
As with many cultures, Ethiopians have several "staple" items that are used in meals every day in one form or another. Basing this claim on the items used in great quantity in our house is not an accurate assessment, because we eat mostly American-style foods -- meat and potatoes, go figure. This is absolutely not the case for the typical Ethiopian family.
The "staples" hat I have seen are:
injera (of course) and yeast bread
shiro (bean powder), lentils, dried peas
tomato, onion, carrots, potatoes, cabbage and cauliflower
mangoes, lemon
eggs, sugar (for tea and coffee)
edible oil (mostly vegetable or sunflower oil)
wheat flour
and hot chili peppers
Spices are a must. These include pepper powder (burbury), salt, cardamom, powdered garlic, cumin, curry and cinnamon.
Milk is very expensive and does not keep. When60% of the homes do not have electricity, the pantry selection is a bit more limited. When meat is an option there is primarily chicken ($3 for a live one) or ox beef ($1.50/lb), mostly because it is most affordable. Sheep ($4.20/lb) is another meat protein source, tho much more expensive.
To prepare a typical chicken meal, like my current favorite, doro
wat, one chicken is slaughtered, dipped in boiling water to de-feather, scrub with salt water and shiro and cut into 12 pieces. Take 3 kg of onion (6.6 pounds) and chop and cook in a pot until browned, add oil and burbury then add garlic, cardamom. Add chicken and cook for a long time (until tender, 2-3 hours by stove, 5 by charcoal). Then add 12 boiled eggs, .5 lb butter and and salt. Serve with injera (10% fiber, 90% courage) and enjoy. SO from chicken to the plate, 4 - 7 hours depending on your heat source.
When you do not have all day to wait for a meal, like breakfast time, there are faster dishes prepared. A typical breakfast is bread and tea, sometimes with a scrambled egg. Another popular breakfast is called fitfit. Chop up tomato and cook down in burbury and oil. Add butter (if you have it) and scramble in some injera. Thats it. I hear it is pretty good, but Rebecca has not made it for me yet. Of course I have not asked, so my fault.
Overall I am coming to enjoy the local food. I have found myself wanting injera for lunch and it still surprises the locals to see me eating it with them. Yes, I know much of it looks like cat food, but it is the taste that matters.
LONG time!As with many cultures, Ethiopians have several "staple" items that are used in meals every day in one form or another. Basing this claim on the items used in great quantity in our house is not an accurate assessment, because we eat mostly American-style foods -- meat and potatoes, go figure. This is absolutely not the case for the typical Ethiopian family.
The "staples" hat I have seen are:
injera (of course) and yeast bread
shiro (bean powder), lentils, dried peas
tomato, onion, carrots, potatoes, cabbage and cauliflower
mangoes, lemon
eggs, sugar (for tea and coffee)
edible oil (mostly vegetable or sunflower oil)
wheat flour
and hot chili peppers
Spices are a must. These include pepper powder (burbury), salt, cardamom, powdered garlic, cumin, curry and cinnamon.
Milk is very expensive and does not keep. When60% of the homes do not have electricity, the pantry selection is a bit more limited. When meat is an option there is primarily chicken ($3 for a live one) or ox beef ($1.50/lb), mostly because it is most affordable. Sheep ($4.20/lb) is another meat protein source, tho much more expensive.
To prepare a typical chicken meal, like my current favorite, doro
wat, one chicken is slaughtered, dipped in boiling water to de-feather, scrub with salt water and shiro and cut into 12 pieces. Take 3 kg of onion (6.6 pounds) and chop and cook in a pot until browned, add oil and burbury then add garlic, cardamom. Add chicken and cook for a long time (until tender, 2-3 hours by stove, 5 by charcoal). Then add 12 boiled eggs, .5 lb butter and and salt. Serve with injera (10% fiber, 90% courage) and enjoy. SO from chicken to the plate, 4 - 7 hours depending on your heat source.When you do not have all day to wait for a meal, like breakfast time, there are faster dishes prepared. A typical breakfast is bread and tea, sometimes with a scrambled egg. Another popular breakfast is called fitfit. Chop up tomato and cook down in burbury and oil. Add butter (if you have it) and scramble in some injera. Thats it. I hear it is pretty good, but Rebecca has not made it for me yet. Of course I have not asked, so my fault.
Overall I am coming to enjoy the local food. I have found myself wanting injera for lunch and it still surprises the locals to see me eating it with them. Yes, I know much of it looks like cat food, but it is the taste that matters.
Sunday, April 29, 2007
The Coffee Ceremony
At Easter at Wuhib's house and again the next weekend at Rebecca's house, we were treated to the traditional coffee ceremony. Ethiopia's coffee ceremony is an integral part of their social and cultural life. 
An invitation to attend a coffee ceremony is considered a mark of friendship or respect and is an excellent example of Ethiopian hospitality. Performing the ceremony is almost obligatory in the presence of a visitor, whatever the time of day. You learn to not be in a hurry though - this special ceremony can take a few hours. You simply sit back and enjoy because it is most definitely not instant and certainly worth the wait.
The Ethiopian homage to coffee is sometimes ornate and always beautifully ceremonial. The ceremony is usually conducted by one young woman, often dressed in the traditional Ethiopian costume of a white dress with colored woven borders. The long involved process starts with the ceremonial apparatus being arranged upon a bed of long scented grasses. The roasting of the coffee beans is done in a flat pan over a tiny charcoal stove, the pungent smell mingling with the heady scent of incense that is always burned during the ceremony. The lady who is conducting the cere
mony gently washes a handful of coffee beans on the heated pan, then stirs and shakes the husks away. When the coffee beans have turned black and shining and the aromatic oil is coaxed out of them, they are ground in a wooden mortar with a long handled pestle. The ground coffee is slowly stirred into the black clay coffee pot locally known as a 'jebena', which is round at the bottom with a straw lid. Due to the archaic method used by Ethiopians, the ground coffee result can be called anything but even, so the coffee is strained through a fine sieve several times. The youngest child is then sent out to announce when it is to be served and stands ready to bring a cup of coffee first to the eldest in the room and then to the others, connecting all the generations. The lady finally
serves the coffee in tiny china cups to her family, friends and neighbours who have waited and watched the procedure for the past half-hour. Gracefully pouring a thin golden stream of coffee into each little cup from a height of one foot without an interruption requires years of practice.
The coffee is usually taken with plenty of sugar (or in the countryside, salt) but no milk and is generally accompanied by lavish praise for its flavor and skillful preparation. Often it is complemented by a traditional snack food, such as sugared popcorn (kettlecorn), peanuts or cooked barley. In most parts of Ethiopia, the coffee ceremony takes place three times a day - in the
morning, at noon and in the evening. It is the main social event and a time to discuss the community, politics, life and about who did what with whom. Forget about any work happening during coffee time. When at a home ceremony it is considered impolite to retire until you have consumed at least three cups, as the third round is considered to bestow a blessing. Transformation of the spirit is said to take place during the coffee ceremony through the completion of 'Abol' (the first round), 'Tona' (second round) and 'Baraka' (third round). This is three separate boilings of the grounds with the first being the most delicious (and strongest of course) and the final tasting quite a bit like weak Folger's or Maxwell House. You know, the kind you can see through.
According to national folklore, the origin of coffee is firmly rooted in Ethiopia's history. Their most popular legend concerns the goat herder named Kaldi from Kaffa, where the
plants still grow wild in the forest hills. After discovering his goats to be excited, almost dancing on their hind legs, he noticed a few mangled branches of the coffee plant which was hung with bright red berries. He tried the berries himself and rushed home to his wife who told him that he must tell the monks. The monks tossed the sinful drug into the flames, an action soon to be followed by the smell we are all so familiar with now. They crushed the beans, raked them out of the fire, and distilled the stimulating substance in boiling water. Within minutes the monastery filled with the heavenly aroma of roasting beans, and the other monks gathered to investigate. After sitting up all night, they found a renewed energy to their holy devotions. The rest, as they say, is history.
I have a video of the one Rebecca performed at the Easter dinner. The steps are:
1. Take a handful of green coffee beans and blow away the husks
2. Wash the beans
3. Roast in a pan until wonderfully dark
4. Pick out the "blonde" beans, they make the coffee really bitter
5. Grind
6. Boil all of the grind in a Jebuna (or a teapot) in about 3 cups of water
7. Serve in expresso cups, likely through a strainer
8. Boil in 3 cups of water again while enjoying the 1st cup (Abol).
9. Serve in expresso cups, likely through a strainer
10. Boil in 3 cups of water again, while enjoying the 2nd cup (Tona).
11. Serve in expresso cups, likely through a strainer
12. Enjoy the 3rd cup (Baraka) and receive your blessing.
Try it, there is nothing else like it in the world. If you are lucky, Courtney or Michael will share some of theirs with you.
An invitation to attend a coffee ceremony is considered a mark of friendship or respect and is an excellent example of Ethiopian hospitality. Performing the ceremony is almost obligatory in the presence of a visitor, whatever the time of day. You learn to not be in a hurry though - this special ceremony can take a few hours. You simply sit back and enjoy because it is most definitely not instant and certainly worth the wait.
The Ethiopian homage to coffee is sometimes ornate and always beautifully ceremonial. The ceremony is usually conducted by one young woman, often dressed in the traditional Ethiopian costume of a white dress with colored woven borders. The long involved process starts with the ceremonial apparatus being arranged upon a bed of long scented grasses. The roasting of the coffee beans is done in a flat pan over a tiny charcoal stove, the pungent smell mingling with the heady scent of incense that is always burned during the ceremony. The lady who is conducting the cere
mony gently washes a handful of coffee beans on the heated pan, then stirs and shakes the husks away. When the coffee beans have turned black and shining and the aromatic oil is coaxed out of them, they are ground in a wooden mortar with a long handled pestle. The ground coffee is slowly stirred into the black clay coffee pot locally known as a 'jebena', which is round at the bottom with a straw lid. Due to the archaic method used by Ethiopians, the ground coffee result can be called anything but even, so the coffee is strained through a fine sieve several times. The youngest child is then sent out to announce when it is to be served and stands ready to bring a cup of coffee first to the eldest in the room and then to the others, connecting all the generations. The lady finally
serves the coffee in tiny china cups to her family, friends and neighbours who have waited and watched the procedure for the past half-hour. Gracefully pouring a thin golden stream of coffee into each little cup from a height of one foot without an interruption requires years of practice.The coffee is usually taken with plenty of sugar (or in the countryside, salt) but no milk and is generally accompanied by lavish praise for its flavor and skillful preparation. Often it is complemented by a traditional snack food, such as sugared popcorn (kettlecorn), peanuts or cooked barley. In most parts of Ethiopia, the coffee ceremony takes place three times a day - in the
morning, at noon and in the evening. It is the main social event and a time to discuss the community, politics, life and about who did what with whom. Forget about any work happening during coffee time. When at a home ceremony it is considered impolite to retire until you have consumed at least three cups, as the third round is considered to bestow a blessing. Transformation of the spirit is said to take place during the coffee ceremony through the completion of 'Abol' (the first round), 'Tona' (second round) and 'Baraka' (third round). This is three separate boilings of the grounds with the first being the most delicious (and strongest of course) and the final tasting quite a bit like weak Folger's or Maxwell House. You know, the kind you can see through.According to national folklore, the origin of coffee is firmly rooted in Ethiopia's history. Their most popular legend concerns the goat herder named Kaldi from Kaffa, where the
plants still grow wild in the forest hills. After discovering his goats to be excited, almost dancing on their hind legs, he noticed a few mangled branches of the coffee plant which was hung with bright red berries. He tried the berries himself and rushed home to his wife who told him that he must tell the monks. The monks tossed the sinful drug into the flames, an action soon to be followed by the smell we are all so familiar with now. They crushed the beans, raked them out of the fire, and distilled the stimulating substance in boiling water. Within minutes the monastery filled with the heavenly aroma of roasting beans, and the other monks gathered to investigate. After sitting up all night, they found a renewed energy to their holy devotions. The rest, as they say, is history.I have a video of the one Rebecca performed at the Easter dinner. The steps are:
1. Take a handful of green coffee beans and blow away the husks
2. Wash the beans
3. Roast in a pan until wonderfully dark
4. Pick out the "blonde" beans, they make the coffee really bitter
5. Grind
6. Boil all of the grind in a Jebuna (or a teapot) in about 3 cups of water
7. Serve in expresso cups, likely through a strainer
8. Boil in 3 cups of water again while enjoying the 1st cup (Abol).
9. Serve in expresso cups, likely through a strainer
10. Boil in 3 cups of water again, while enjoying the 2nd cup (Tona).
11. Serve in expresso cups, likely through a strainer
12. Enjoy the 3rd cup (Baraka) and receive your blessing.
Try it, there is nothing else like it in the world. If you are lucky, Courtney or Michael will share some of theirs with you.
Friday, April 20, 2007
Easter in Addis - Part 2
Wuhib has a wonderful view from his home. The cool mountain breezes and warm sunlight made for a comfortable and homey Easter meal. It is a good thing too, because we ate outside.We began with what they called a "treat" some of the most tender part of the sheep. Ended up it was the backbone, boiled up in spices and a chili pepper they call Berbere. It was certainly tender, but there was not much of it.
Then came the Doro Wat, Ethiopian Stew. There were two types, white (lamb) and red (chicken). The
chicken version was made from the chicken that Wuhib's sister had found the day
before, five hard boiled eggs, about three pounds of onions and then, garlic, lemon juice, salt, ginger, fenugreek, cardamom, nutmeg and a spiced butter. All is cooked down to a thick stew and then the berbere is added. LOTS of berbere. Man is it hot. So until my taste buds get used to it (or they burn off) I dilute the berbere with some soup juice when i can. Berbere is alot like our cayene chili powder and the locals use it as a dip on almost everything. I asked what it was made from and they rattled off a list 
of spices as long as my arm. The white doro wat is a lamb stew with MUCH less berbere. Huwot gave me some regular white bread. When I tried to eat it, she stopped me and showed me that I was to use it to wipe the berbere off the chicken so I could eat it. Even Ethiopians do not respect "wasper nest" bread. She then brought out the Yemarina Yewotet Dabo, or honey yeast bread. It was about 2 feet across, 6 inches thick and had been baked the day before in a huge clay pot over charcoal. Of course there was injera as well.The celebratory drinks were made there as well. Talla, Tej and Arakae. Tej is an ancient, golden, honey-based wine, Talla is a local beer (that to this day still tastes rather nasty to me) and Arakae is Ethiopian moonshine, white lightning with a slightly different flavor and all of the kick.
As a follow-up we had "tibs". The cut a thin strip of lamb such that there are chunks of meat held together by a strand of sinew. Thi
s is then quickly fried in butter with onions, garlic, hot green peppers and a little berbere (of course). It was then moved to the "fry daddy" that Nanci had purchased the day before. It is eaten by pulling off the chunks you want and eating with bread or injera. Yummy yummy yummy! This was a hit for sure.
It was dessert time and the crew was treated to American chocolate cake and southern fruit cobblers. They were fascinated with the cake, primarily because it was so sweet and so richly chocolate. I discovered that the most common form of sugar used here is glucose, rather than sucrose. Sucrose is about 3 times sweeter, so their sweet treats are hardly sweet at all. They use chocolate sparingly (more to darken the bread it seems) so this cake would have knocked their socks off, if they wore socks.Then came the coffee ceremony. Ribka performed it for us. I'll go through that process
next blog, but in short, they roast, grind, and prepare coffee right there and MAN is it tasty! There is truly nothing like it.Finally came the most fun part of the day. The dancing! Wuhib tried his best to teach John, but to no avail. In the end he is still a testament to the phrase "white guys can't dance". Of course I was likely just as bad.
Thus ended the Ethiopian Easter feast. I doubted that I would ever experience another event like that. I was wrong. The following Sunday is also an Easter holiday and we did another feast at Ribka's home. Details to follow later.
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Easter in Addis - Part 1 The preparation
OK, firstly, my apologies for being a blog slacker. Massive efforts have been required for the 90-day report for the Minister. Its done now, so there is a little downtime available so here is a big one too help make up for it.
The largest holiday of the year is Easter, larger than the Timkut celebration or Christmas (which is in January here). People save u, sell off, buy presents for family and feast, dance and drink on this day. There are a couple of reasons, being Orthodox Christians, it is the most holy of holy days. Perhaps for reason for celebration is that 55 days of seriously bland vegi-fasting is OVER! Think Fat Tuesday in New Orleans times 10!
Wuhib (our driver, 34) invited us to his home for Easter dinner, a coffee ceremony and to meet his family and friends. A traditional celebration and feast. Nanci and I decided to add to the tradition by cooking some traditional Amerikan foods to take as well. She made chocolate cake and I made mango and guava cobblers. But the real adventure was the preparation for the rest of the feast.
You see, we had to go shopping for a sheep, the wood to cook it over and the proper charcoal and incense for the coffee ceremony. It could not be just any old sheep, it HAD to be the RIGHT sheep. So off we drove to the "countryside" to a place named Sendafa. It was my first time out of the city of Addis and boy was I
ready for it. I still hate big cities so this was quite the relief. We were only about 10 miles out of town and the land changed to a countryside that reminded me of Wyoming, vast grassy plains with great mountains on the horizon in all directions. If the area surrounding Laramie had grass hut buildings and hump-backed 
oxen instead of cattle it would have been a really good match. Many people were getting their sheep out of town. I guess that country sheep in town are not as desirable because they had to chase them 10-20 miles into town and that makes them a bit tougher. 
We needed a fat lazy country sheep for this feast. Others thought the same thing it seems, as there were many vehicles loaded with live sheep - taxis, buses, trucks and yes, even Volkswagen Beetles. We finally arrived in Sendafa and Wuhib turned the truck around and in his wonderful broken English said "enough driving, I know where get sheep better." So back toward Addis we go. Apparently he knows someone who trucks in the sheep from way out in the country and he is at a market just outside of the city. This is where we will find "big sheep". On the way back we passed a pottery stand where local craftswomen make doro wat cooking pots, talla pots, baking rounds, drinking cups, coffee pots and something that looked like a black clay "Fry Daddy". Nanci 
bought the "Fry Daddy" and a Doro Wat pot for Wuhib and I picked up 4 black clay goblets. We were so eager to get out of the truck and see the pots that we both forgot tot take any pictures of the place.
We managed to find a wood seller and bought 5 bundles of firewood. They were about 4 ft long, about 1 ft in diameter and covered the bed of the pickup truck nicely. A few kilks and a couple of turns later we say the sheep market, a stockyard in a big flat spot beside the road.
There was just one small problem. Wuhib had 3 white Amerikans with him. Around here, that is a sign to increase your prices by about 50%. Apparently the potters had done that to us just a few minutes before, where it likely added a couple dollars total to the entire purchase, but Wuhib was not about to let that happen on the sheep. That would be too expensive and just wrong, especially on East
er. So the three of us agreed to hang back and wander around the rest of the market while he found and negotiated for dinner on the hoof. In less than ten minutes two guys were walking with dinner, tying up the hoofs and tossing the sheep into the back of the truck, all for about 500 birr (about $55). Now there was no way we were going to keep the sheep at our house, so we took it to Wuhib's 
house and tied it to a tree in the yard. Nanci and John thought that this was just such a cool thing and I agree. None of us had been sheep shopping before and certainly not in Africa. After all the driving and excitement, we forgot to get the chicken. Wuhib said he would make his sister go get it later so we could go back home and prepare our part of the meal. Alimu (our guard, we call him Alex, 28) went home with Wuhib to attend Easter services and to help with the meal preparations the next morning.
Easter church services begin at Midnight and run until about 3:30 AM. This was an amazing thing actually. A little after Midnight there came a sound that arose from the ground and filled the air. Ever so faint at first, it grew to no more than the hum of a bumble bee from about five feet away, but it surrounded everything. It was the sound of hundreds of thousands of people chanting a moaning, but happy, chant. I was the only one in the house awake to hear it. Wow.
After church, everyone goes home and slaughters a sheep or a hen over prayers and chanting. This is part of the ritual and the tradition, with all of the normal representations of the "blood of the lamb" and the "cleansing of the sins" tied to the process. It is learned at a very young age and considered quite normal. I accepted this explanation, trusted them to know what they were doing and slept through it all back at home. It appears that I missed one of the "best parts" of the ritual - the eating of the fresh kidneys. Quite the treat I was told. I cannot say that I am too disappointed to have missed that part. The end result was a large amount of sheep meat, 
ready for the pot. The chicken also found its way to the pot and all this before 6AM.
On Easter afternoon, Wuhib returned to the house to pick us up and drive to the feast. He was dressed in his all white traditional garb and the six of us crammed into our little Toyota pick-up with crew cab and happily
drove through the rain to the celebration. Although it made the "driveway" up the mountain a little muddy, the rain on Easter day was said to be a blessing and a good sign of things to come.
Wuhib's home is fairly typical of homes in Addis Ababa "suburbs". He's on the side of a mountain, has a
living room and a bedroom with an attached kitchen and an outbuilding that serves as the hot baking room and outhouse. He does have electricity, but no running wate
r yet. There is a neighbor a few doors down with a well that they get their water from. The fill and carry plastic "jerry cans" of water for cooking and drinking and sponge baths. The kitchen was where the sheep was hanging and where all of the cooking for the day was being done. Wuhib's brother, Kelelaw (24) lives there as does his two sisters, Hiwot (14) and Menebere (21) who just returned home from her first and only year of college. She did not pass the exam to return for another year. As is tradition, the girls did the cooking and the men did the preparation. As for what we had, well, you have to wait for the next entry. We're going to Ribka's (our housekeeper, 28) home for dinner today.
The largest holiday of the year is Easter, larger than the Timkut celebration or Christmas (which is in January here). People save u, sell off, buy presents for family and feast, dance and drink on this day. There are a couple of reasons, being Orthodox Christians, it is the most holy of holy days. Perhaps for reason for celebration is that 55 days of seriously bland vegi-fasting is OVER! Think Fat Tuesday in New Orleans times 10!
Wuhib (our driver, 34) invited us to his home for Easter dinner, a coffee ceremony and to meet his family and friends. A traditional celebration and feast. Nanci and I decided to add to the tradition by cooking some traditional Amerikan foods to take as well. She made chocolate cake and I made mango and guava cobblers. But the real adventure was the preparation for the rest of the feast.
You see, we had to go shopping for a sheep, the wood to cook it over and the proper charcoal and incense for the coffee ceremony. It could not be just any old sheep, it HAD to be the RIGHT sheep. So off we drove to the "countryside" to a place named Sendafa. It was my first time out of the city of Addis and boy was I
ready for it. I still hate big cities so this was quite the relief. We were only about 10 miles out of town and the land changed to a countryside that reminded me of Wyoming, vast grassy plains with great mountains on the horizon in all directions. If the area surrounding Laramie had grass hut buildings and hump-backed 
oxen instead of cattle it would have been a really good match. Many people were getting their sheep out of town. I guess that country sheep in town are not as desirable because they had to chase them 10-20 miles into town and that makes them a bit tougher. 
We needed a fat lazy country sheep for this feast. Others thought the same thing it seems, as there were many vehicles loaded with live sheep - taxis, buses, trucks and yes, even Volkswagen Beetles. We finally arrived in Sendafa and Wuhib turned the truck around and in his wonderful broken English said "enough driving, I know where get sheep better." So back toward Addis we go. Apparently he knows someone who trucks in the sheep from way out in the country and he is at a market just outside of the city. This is where we will find "big sheep". On the way back we passed a pottery stand where local craftswomen make doro wat cooking pots, talla pots, baking rounds, drinking cups, coffee pots and something that looked like a black clay "Fry Daddy". Nanci 
bought the "Fry Daddy" and a Doro Wat pot for Wuhib and I picked up 4 black clay goblets. We were so eager to get out of the truck and see the pots that we both forgot tot take any pictures of the place.We managed to find a wood seller and bought 5 bundles of firewood. They were about 4 ft long, about 1 ft in diameter and covered the bed of the pickup truck nicely. A few kilks and a couple of turns later we say the sheep market, a stockyard in a big flat spot beside the road.
There was just one small problem. Wuhib had 3 white Amerikans with him. Around here, that is a sign to increase your prices by about 50%. Apparently the potters had done that to us just a few minutes before, where it likely added a couple dollars total to the entire purchase, but Wuhib was not about to let that happen on the sheep. That would be too expensive and just wrong, especially on East
er. So the three of us agreed to hang back and wander around the rest of the market while he found and negotiated for dinner on the hoof. In less than ten minutes two guys were walking with dinner, tying up the hoofs and tossing the sheep into the back of the truck, all for about 500 birr (about $55). Now there was no way we were going to keep the sheep at our house, so we took it to Wuhib's 
house and tied it to a tree in the yard. Nanci and John thought that this was just such a cool thing and I agree. None of us had been sheep shopping before and certainly not in Africa. After all the driving and excitement, we forgot to get the chicken. Wuhib said he would make his sister go get it later so we could go back home and prepare our part of the meal. Alimu (our guard, we call him Alex, 28) went home with Wuhib to attend Easter services and to help with the meal preparations the next morning.Easter church services begin at Midnight and run until about 3:30 AM. This was an amazing thing actually. A little after Midnight there came a sound that arose from the ground and filled the air. Ever so faint at first, it grew to no more than the hum of a bumble bee from about five feet away, but it surrounded everything. It was the sound of hundreds of thousands of people chanting a moaning, but happy, chant. I was the only one in the house awake to hear it. Wow.
After church, everyone goes home and slaughters a sheep or a hen over prayers and chanting. This is part of the ritual and the tradition, with all of the normal representations of the "blood of the lamb" and the "cleansing of the sins" tied to the process. It is learned at a very young age and considered quite normal. I accepted this explanation, trusted them to know what they were doing and slept through it all back at home. It appears that I missed one of the "best parts" of the ritual - the eating of the fresh kidneys. Quite the treat I was told. I cannot say that I am too disappointed to have missed that part. The end result was a large amount of sheep meat, 
ready for the pot. The chicken also found its way to the pot and all this before 6AM.On Easter afternoon, Wuhib returned to the house to pick us up and drive to the feast. He was dressed in his all white traditional garb and the six of us crammed into our little Toyota pick-up with crew cab and happily
drove through the rain to the celebration. Although it made the "driveway" up the mountain a little muddy, the rain on Easter day was said to be a blessing and a good sign of things to come.Wuhib's home is fairly typical of homes in Addis Ababa "suburbs". He's on the side of a mountain, has a
living room and a bedroom with an attached kitchen and an outbuilding that serves as the hot baking room and outhouse. He does have electricity, but no running wate
r yet. There is a neighbor a few doors down with a well that they get their water from. The fill and carry plastic "jerry cans" of water for cooking and drinking and sponge baths. The kitchen was where the sheep was hanging and where all of the cooking for the day was being done. Wuhib's brother, Kelelaw (24) lives there as does his two sisters, Hiwot (14) and Menebere (21) who just returned home from her first and only year of college. She did not pass the exam to return for another year. As is tradition, the girls did the cooking and the men did the preparation. As for what we had, well, you have to wait for the next entry. We're going to Ribka's (our housekeeper, 28) home for dinner today.
Friday, April 6, 2007
About Miracles
800 years ago, King Lalibela wanted to create a new Jerusalem, which Saladin reclaimed from the crusaders in 1187. Because his people were denied access to t
he Holy Land, pilgrims from Ethiopia and the small Christian states along the Nile would be able to worship there. The stream bubbling past the city was christened the Jordan, and the hill overlooking it Mount Tabor. It was in this place that they chiseled out churches directly into the stone bedrock. 11 churches, connected by tunnels.
http://www.spiegel.de/international/0,1518,473358,00.html
Ancient superstition is woven into the teachings of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. So much so that people with knee injuries or dying of HIV/Aids will refuse medications in favor of Holy Water.
http://news.sky.com/skynews/article/0,,30200-1258762,00.html?f=rss
It is practices like these that show evidence that the church is keeping this country in poverty.The church also forces over 60 non-working weekday holy-days, no working on Sabbath day, over 160 of no-protein fasting and continues to this day to preach that spending money is a sin and the poor man shall goto heaven.
This is one of the biggest hurdles this country must deal with. Not the people's faith or religion, but their church.
he Holy Land, pilgrims from Ethiopia and the small Christian states along the Nile would be able to worship there. The stream bubbling past the city was christened the Jordan, and the hill overlooking it Mount Tabor. It was in this place that they chiseled out churches directly into the stone bedrock. 11 churches, connected by tunnels.http://www.spiegel.de/international/0,1518,473358,00.html
Ancient superstition is woven into the teachings of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. So much so that people with knee injuries or dying of HIV/Aids will refuse medications in favor of Holy Water.
http://news.sky.com/skynews/article/0,,30200-1258762,00.html?f=rss
It is practices like these that show evidence that the church is keeping this country in poverty.The church also forces over 60 non-working weekday holy-days, no working on Sabbath day, over 160 of no-protein fasting and continues to this day to preach that spending money is a sin and the poor man shall goto heaven.
This is one of the biggest hurdles this country must deal with. Not the people's faith or religion, but their church.
Wednesday, April 4, 2007
General Impressions #1
very interesting indeed, the local people are some of the friendliest you could ever meet. They are extremely courteous and seem to smile most of the time. After you see the conditions under which the vast majority of the people live you begin to wonder why they seem so happy. For example on the outskirts of Addis Ababa, what we would normally call the suburbs, many of the people still live in either small huts with walls and roofs made of sticks and mud/dung or in houses constructed out of large sheets of corrugated metal. Even with all its poverty Once you begin to look deeper into the lives of individuals it become
s apparent that much of their contentment and happiness is due much to their strong family ties and extremely deep religious beliefs. Most Ethiopians practice a very ancient form of the Christian Orthodox religion and attend church several times each week. In addition many people study their bible several times each day and enjoy discussing the meaning of a particular passage that they have just read. In discussing a bible passage they are eager to hear you explain your personal interpretation. Rather than wanting to debate your point of view they seem eager to learn from you so that they may better understand.
I am just beginning to learn much from these kind and gentle hearted people and am looking forward to what I can already tell is going to be a great adventure.
Thursday, March 29, 2007
About Kids
Throughout the country, there are about 18,000 schools, and over 122,000 classrooms. Ten years ago, 3 million children were in school. Last year there were a little over 12 million kids in school. The average class size had 102 kids per classroom and averaged 64 kids per teacher. Last year, 3.3 million children entered the 1st grade. By 2nd grade this number dropped to 1.9 million. By the 8th grade, this has dropped to 0.61 million. Only 45,000 make it to 
12th grade. Finally, about 13,000 complete a 4-year degree from college. About 1 in 1,000 who start school, get a college degree. This is one of the reasons that this culture nearly worships degree holders. The habit of equating ability with having a degree is rampant.The education system is particularly tough on the girls. Although they start out about equal in numbers, by the time 12th grade arrives, there is only 1 girl to every 3 boys still in school. Although much of the drop out may be from a lack of money (public school does cost some money as doe
s book rental) much more comes from the cultural belief that girls do not need much education and are more needed to be working at home.Public school costs about 30 Birr a month (~$3.30) but it does include the cost of their uniforms. All school children wear uniforms. Through high school. Unfortunately it is less about the elimination of "DKNY" and "Eminem t-shirts" and more about
assuring the kids have clothes to wear. Private schools are closer to 300 Birr a month. As you might expect, the class size in private schools are much smaller (about half the size) and the availability to resources is much better.Kids here are like kids back home. They love to play simple games, they get into mischief, they love their friends. The middle school girls hang out in small groups and giggle alot and soccer is just the thing to do. Even if they do not have a soccer ball, the kids will play. I saw what looks like a wadded up ball of banana leaves held together with rope being used as a soccer ball in a dirt field. They love it when adults praise them for doing well in school and want to do better whenever they get the chance.
This is Nanci, the finance expert on our team with two of my favorite kids over here. When her husband John came here, he brought a couple toys for them. Our housekeeper, Rebecca, has a 7-year old son, Adonay and a 9-year old little sister, Bettaseyda who is in the 3rd grade like my boys are. She is studying the same things they are in science and math. She learns English and Amharic, but does all of her schoolwork in finely printed English. Kids are kids.
Sunday, March 25, 2007
Some Statistics
Living conditions: According to the Human Development Report of 2001, about 45% of the people in Ethiopia live on less than 10 Birr (one US dollar) per day.
Literacy rate: The adult literacy rate is 36% (46% for males and 25% for females). The primary school enrollment rate is 68.4% for both sexes, out of which girls constitute 59%. 48% of girls drop out by 6th grade compared to 25% of boys.
Student:Teacher Ratio: 65:1
Student:Textbook Ratio: 3:1
Age: 55% of the population are under age 20. 3% are over age 55.
Life Expectancy: Average 47.6 years.
Access to safe drinking water: Only 33% of the population had access to safe drinking water in 1999. The coverage in urban areas is 80% and in rural areas it is 14.3%.
Sanitation facilities: Sanitation coverage is estimated at 25%, 74% of urban-dwellers have access to reasonable sanitation facilities.
Health care performance: The health system provides health care for 52% of the population. Most of the rural population has limited access to modern health-care services. In terms of service delivery, it is estimated that only 75% of urban households and about 42% of rural-dwellers have access to health facilities. There is seasonal shortage of medicines and medical supplies. Like in many other African countries, the main causes for the shortage of medicines and medical supplies are lengthy procurement procedures, limited access to information and an inefficient distribution system.
The issue of health-care services delivery to the pastoral communities (nomads), who account for 10% of the population, calls for special attention.
Agricultural productivity and food safety: Low agricultural productivity and recurring drought are responsible for nutritional deficiencies. 51.5% of children below the age of five were stunted while 10.5% were wasted and 42.7% were underweight. The same survey found out that 3.6% of the women were stunted and 30.1% were undernourished. Micronutrient deficiencies, in particular vitamin A deficiency and iodine deficiency disorders, are also
widespread.
Unemployment/underemployment/migration: According to the report of the Central Statistics Authority (CSA) on the 1999 national labour force survey, 8% of all people aged 15 years and above were unemployed. This means that most of the rural population in this age category is employed, but they produce enough for the subsistence of the family only. Thus, no surplus is available to earn an income for the improvement of the economic well-being of the population. Of the total population of the country, 19.6% are migrants. The reasons for population movement (migration) are search for work, marriage arrangements and return home or going back to place of origin, and search for grazing area. Pastoralists constitute about 10% of the population. It was found that females were more likely to migrate than males.
Status of women: Violence against women is still prevalent in the country and harmful traditional practices (abduction, early marriage, etc.) are common. These have negative consequences on the health of women. Therefore, mainstream gender issues in all aspects of development, including health, are important. Ethiopia has the highest incidence of maternal mortality of any country in the world, ranging from 560 to 850 per 100,000 population.
Literacy rate: The adult literacy rate is 36% (46% for males and 25% for females). The primary school enrollment rate is 68.4% for both sexes, out of which girls constitute 59%. 48% of girls drop out by 6th grade compared to 25% of boys.
Student:Teacher Ratio: 65:1
Student:Textbook Ratio: 3:1
Age: 55% of the population are under age 20. 3% are over age 55.
Life Expectancy: Average 47.6 years.
Access to safe drinking water: Only 33% of the population had access to safe drinking water in 1999. The coverage in urban areas is 80% and in rural areas it is 14.3%.
Sanitation facilities: Sanitation coverage is estimated at 25%, 74% of urban-dwellers have access to reasonable sanitation facilities.
Health care performance: The health system provides health care for 52% of the population. Most of the rural population has limited access to modern health-care services. In terms of service delivery, it is estimated that only 75% of urban households and about 42% of rural-dwellers have access to health facilities. There is seasonal shortage of medicines and medical supplies. Like in many other African countries, the main causes for the shortage of medicines and medical supplies are lengthy procurement procedures, limited access to information and an inefficient distribution system.
The issue of health-care services delivery to the pastoral communities (nomads), who account for 10% of the population, calls for special attention.
Agricultural productivity and food safety: Low agricultural productivity and recurring drought are responsible for nutritional deficiencies. 51.5% of children below the age of five were stunted while 10.5% were wasted and 42.7% were underweight. The same survey found out that 3.6% of the women were stunted and 30.1% were undernourished. Micronutrient deficiencies, in particular vitamin A deficiency and iodine deficiency disorders, are also
widespread.
Unemployment/underemployment/migration: According to the report of the Central Statistics Authority (CSA) on the 1999 national labour force survey, 8% of all people aged 15 years and above were unemployed. This means that most of the rural population in this age category is employed, but they produce enough for the subsistence of the family only. Thus, no surplus is available to earn an income for the improvement of the economic well-being of the population. Of the total population of the country, 19.6% are migrants. The reasons for population movement (migration) are search for work, marriage arrangements and return home or going back to place of origin, and search for grazing area. Pastoralists constitute about 10% of the population. It was found that females were more likely to migrate than males.
Status of women: Violence against women is still prevalent in the country and harmful traditional practices (abduction, early marriage, etc.) are common. These have negative consequences on the health of women. Therefore, mainstream gender issues in all aspects of development, including health, are important. Ethiopia has the highest incidence of maternal mortality of any country in the world, ranging from 560 to 850 per 100,000 population.
Saturday, March 24, 2007
About Retail
The hardest thing about living here is finding what you want. In a city of 4 million, it is here somewhere, but with no addresses, and no large department stores, the search is the hardest part. Fortunately the merchants tend to cluster in similar areas. By that I mean that there is an auto parts section of town and a clothing sect
ion and a hardware section and a flooring section, etc. Unfortunately we have no clue where they are AND no way to get directions other than "go down that road where Ahmed grew up and turn left where they are thinking about building that new bank." The 
use of the corregated metal sheet metal pieces is all around, especi
ally for the "shops". These people really are proud of their locks too. I watched one guy diligently attach and lock his padlock on a sheet metal door to a canvas hut. There are basically two 
types of quality goods here, used and Family Dollar. You also need to watch out that you do not get charged 50-100% more because you are a white guy with money. They all know the white people have lots of money and most of them will give you some if you look pitiful enough. Now granted there are some really destitute poor folks here that truly do beg
for money to feed the child strapped to their backs. But just Friday we were waiting in traffic on a four-lane road and a guy was perched on the concrete median divider. I saw him counting through a small handful of bills, and then tuck the money into his jacket pocket. As we inched closer, he saw us, put on his sad face and came to the window asking for money for food in Amharic. I told him "Ah-goo-bahn-yum" which means "I don't understand" in Amharic. He then gestures to show me. I gesture back and showed him that I knew where he had hidden his stash of cash. He got a surprised look on his face, grinned really big, laughed and said "have a great afternoon!"
ion and a hardware section and a flooring section, etc. Unfortunately we have no clue where they are AND no way to get directions other than "go down that road where Ahmed grew up and turn left where they are thinking about building that new bank." The 
use of the corregated metal sheet metal pieces is all around, especi
ally for the "shops". These people really are proud of their locks too. I watched one guy diligently attach and lock his padlock on a sheet metal door to a canvas hut. There are basically two 
types of quality goods here, used and Family Dollar. You also need to watch out that you do not get charged 50-100% more because you are a white guy with money. They all know the white people have lots of money and most of them will give you some if you look pitiful enough. Now granted there are some really destitute poor folks here that truly do beg
for money to feed the child strapped to their backs. But just Friday we were waiting in traffic on a four-lane road and a guy was perched on the concrete median divider. I saw him counting through a small handful of bills, and then tuck the money into his jacket pocket. As we inched closer, he saw us, put on his sad face and came to the window asking for money for food in Amharic. I told him "Ah-goo-bahn-yum" which means "I don't understand" in Amharic. He then gestures to show me. I gesture back and showed him that I knew where he had hidden his stash of cash. He got a surprised look on his face, grinned really big, laughed and said "have a great afternoon!"Every day it is something different and as always, things are not quite as you expect them to be.
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